The Head Belayer for this recent Youth Qualifying event sent me this photo. At first I was like, why this photo, I'm just waiting between rounds? But the moment is wholly deliberate, everything about it rehearsed, planned. I've already introduced myself and performed the safety check with the athlete. But I'm standing in an orientation where the athlete knows I'm there and where the athlete can see the current climber in this flash format comp. I'm also actively recovering energy. I'm also not adding to the chaos; I'm operating among the chaos but I am not part of it. I have the rope basket ready and our tidy procession is ready for approach. The athlete knows everything is under control, this is my guide through all of this.
This a Youth Series qualifier not National Team Trials or World Championship. But to me, each athlete and every attempt are the same. My role is be be that athlete's cheat code because I have trained in a fashion that has not only sustained and grew my belay but has created a reputation as some one good enough for me to try my hardest. The concern is not if I try hard things will the belay support it. I have had athletes at every level tell me, "Oh, not I can try harder!" That's crazy but that's all part of the plan; to make every belayer good enough to support the hardest climbing regardless of level, venue, or competition.
This photo is when all the training comes together: physical, mental, reflex, focus, movement, belaying, and active recovery. This is my 12th season and I'm grateful that I'm able to continue to improve my work. I know what to work on next.
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